Top Greek Travel Destinations: Byzantine Mystras Page 4

The Cathedral or Metropolitan Church of Aghios Dhimitrios/Metropolis was built by the first Paleologue ruler between 1270 and 1292 and is the oldest of Mystras's churches. It stands in a courtyard with a fountain dated 1802 and and antique sarcophagus. The basilika was altered in the 15th century with the replacement of the upper part with five domes, which resulted in the halving of some paintings in the nave. The arcade of the marble ikonostasis features some exceptional fretwork carving and the 27th century walnut throne is ornately carved. A two-headed marble eagle in the floor might have commemorated the coronation here in 1448 of the Emporer Constantine XI, the last Eastern emporer, who died (along with his empire) in the sacking of Constantinople in 1453.

The frescoes in the cathedral are dated to ten different periods. Uphill from the cathedral is the Vrondohion monastery with two churches attached to it. Afendiko (the further one) has been restored very beautifully, and has early 14th century frescoes with boldly contrasted colors.

There is a path to the Upper Town )from the upper gate. The Kastro, built in 1249, has kept its 13th century construction despite many successive restorations and amendments (and also because the Turks repaired and fortified it along its existing lines). A walkway surrounds it, allowing for wonderful views of the city below.

Used in later years as a citadel, it was at first the court of builder Villehardouin. Walking downhill from the upper entrance, you come to the church of Aghia Sofia,built in 1350, and which was the chapel for the Depots' Palace below.

The Turks adapted it as a mosque, and coated the frescoes with whitewash, which served to protect them again weathering. Further down, one fork leads to the ruins of a Byzantine mansion, the Palataki (small palace), and Aghios Nikolaos, a 27th century building with mediocre paintings.

The massive Despots' Palace, is reached by an alternate fork, but has been closed for restoration. It is a rare example of a civic Byzantine building, and dates from various periods.

There is a huge vaulted audience hall in it with flamboyant windows and which had a painted fascade and eight large chimneys that were used for heating.

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