Rethymnon Prefecture Continued Page Twelve

Axos was a large ancient city, first built in Minoan times and associated with many myths, and which had its port at present day Bali (left). It had an acropolis and massive walls, built later, and (like Elevtherna) minted its own coins, with depictions of Zeus, Apollo and Artemis. There was a temple of Aphrodite there, as well as a 7th century temple, as well as bronze shields and helmets which were votive objects, and beautiful churches from Byzantine and Venetian times, some with good frescoes, Aghia Irini (right) is among them, and remains of the aqueduct. Axos was a guerilla center during the independence struggle of the 19th century, and the town was burned by the Turks. The site is located on a hill above he present-day town which has weaving and embroidery, for sale and tavernas much frequented by tourists. An appealing town.

Anoyia (right) is located on the northern slopes of the Psiloritis range at 750meters/2460feet, and is a town with a lot of history, most of it illustrating the importance of the concept of resurrection in the Greek mentality, as the town was destroyed several times, to rise again and again from the ashes. In 1822 it was burned by Serif Pasha-this during the second year of the long Greek War of Independence-and after some heroic resistance. In 1866 it was burnt by Resit Pasha (having taken part in the big uprising of 1866), but fought again in 1897, and, though not burned again at that time, it was burned in 1944 by the Germans in reprisal partly for sheltering the kidnappers of the German general Kreipe, an act carried out by Greek guerillas aided by the British.

The present village is known for its-weaving and embroidery-which is much touted as some of Crete's best. Though the older (and lower) part of the town appears to be old from a short distance, its structures were all built of concrete after World War II. Alleys with steps lead up to the upper village, which in all ways seems more modern. There's still a lot of old Cretan traditional life in Anoyia, with animals pastured near the houses in the odd vacant field, , and various kinds of craft workshops here and there, including carving. Some of the women who weave or embroider exhibit their works in the 'saloni' (living -room) of their houses, which double as work-shops. Anoyia is the home of one of Greece's most famous traditional music families.

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