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Mt. Pilion (Pilio, Pelio) Magnesia Prefecture Page 8

The 'boot' at the tip of Pilio peninsula appears to have either sharply bent-up toes in its southwestern-most tip, as it curves around and up to form yet a second diminutive peninsula, with Trikeri and its port (Aghia Kyriaki) at its bottom. Political prisoners were exiled here after the Greek civil war (1946-1949), and also to the Paleo Trikeri islet. During the Greek War of Independence (which began in 1821), the ships from this seaside village served in the struggle. Though now only a half-hour drive to Milina on the best road in Pilio, it used to be inaccessible except by paths and dirt tracks, up until a few years ago. Despite some moderate development that came with the new road, the place has happily not been turned into a tourist resort. Nor has Aghia Kyriaki (a few kilometers down below by winding road), which has remained a fishing village (and one of the prettiest places on the coast in these parts). There is a boatyard here as well where traditional methods of construction are used. Large kaikia (caiques) are built , and to a lesser extent, yachts. Lacking a good beach, and seemingly uninterested in building a lot of tourist-oriented facilities and rooms, it is a place that has kept its soul.

milopotamos beachYou can walk from here to Kottes, a little to the north, which sits on the indented inner curl of the up-bent 'toes' of the boot, and is the winter port for Aghia Kyriaki. An alternative walk of two hours will take you to Alogoporos at the top of the curling toes, facing to the north (and across from the islet). The name means 'horse's ford'. At the cove here is the crossing to the Paleo Trikeri islet /or Nisi Trikeri (Trikeri island). Trikeri village was here first, and from prehistoric times. The move to 'Horio' in the sixteenth century (which means 'village', and in this case Trikeri) was prompted by pirate attacks (a common story in Greek coastal history, with settlements being moved to higher ground, often inland). It's a tiny island (about 2.5km long-1 ½ miles) with about one hundred inhabitants, but it does have a few places to stay and a couple of tavernas. Olive orchards and rocky beaches make up the picture, with the one village (also the port) of Ai Yianni and the nineteenth century monastery Evangelistrias uphill from the port (open daily 8am to 3pm and 6pm to 8pm). Up until recently there was no regular boat service out to Paleo Trikeri, and one had to get someone with a small boat to take you.

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